Lindsay Marie Morris

One of my favorite Sicilian treats as a child was torrone, a nut-filled nougat candy my Sicilian grandmother always had on hand, especially for the holidays.

I recently encountered a recipe for torrone in the pages of Giovanna Bellia La Marca's Sicilian Feast, recently reissued as an expanded edition of her 2004 book. 

"Torrone is such a part of Sicilian cuisine that no holiday goes by without it," says Giovanna. "It's delicious. Children love it; adults love it. So it's just part of our culture and kind of a symbol of Sicily."

Giovanna La Marca, who came to the U.S. from Sicily when she was 10 years old, also runs the Kitchen on the Cliff YouTube channel. The name is a nod to the fact that her kitchen is actually on a cliff overlooking Manhattan. 

Giovanna shared with me the history of torrone, how the Sicilian recipe differs from that of mainland Italy, and how this nougat treat has become a Sicilian symbol.

 

 

What is torrone?

Torrone is a nougat candy, and in Sicily, we make it with almonds and sugar or almonds and a combination of sugar and honey. 

It is very much tied to our history. Since antiquity, many people have invaded Sicily. There were the Greeks who made settlements all over Sicily, and they, of course, brought the trees.

The myth is that a boat carrying almond trees and grapevines was going to Puglia, the heel of Italy, which is very close to Greece. And the wind blew it to Sicily. 

But the sweets! Sicily is quite famous for its sweets. One of the great sweets is torrone, and another one is marzipan, which are little sculptures of fruits that are so lifelike that when you see them in the window of the pasticceria, it is just amazing to see the likeness and the artistry with which they are made. 

To achieve that, Sicilians already had almonds, but the sugar was brought by the Arabs around 700, and they planted sugarcane in Sicily.

An interesting side note of that is that the sugar industry in Sicily was dominated by the resident Jews. There was quite a large Jewish colony in Sicily, and they developed the sugar industry. 

Now unfortunately, in 1492, when Spain expelled the Jews, they expelled them not only from their own country but from all the places that they controlled as well, which included Sicily. The Sicilians had no quarrel with the Jews. In fact, the Jewish people really ran the sugar industry. So they waited six months. They didn't want to expel them. But Spain prevailed. And that ended the sugar industry in Sicily, which is a little-known fact but a very interesting one, I think.

 

How does Sicilian torrone differ from torrone found elsewhere in Italy?

Well, the typical torrone of Italy is white, and it's made with a meringue of sugar and almonds and sometimes other nuts and sometimes bits of citron and so on. It is poured on edible rice paper, and that's how it's served and cut. 

In Sicily, it is really almonds surrounded by crunchy caramel. It's very, very crunchy. It's actually a brittle. You can cut it with a knife, and you get all the cross sections of the almonds, which is very pretty. But you can also break it. It breaks in odd shapes, and that's another way that we usually serve it.

 

As a child, I had trouble with it because I didn't have the patience to let it melt in my mouth. I wanted to chew it, and chewing it was a job because it was really quite hard. 

I'm not talking about the soft caramel we all know. I'm talking about true caramel, which, if you pour into a greased bowl and turn the bowl upside down, you end up with a bowl made of caramel.

It's used that way for very high cuisine. In Sicily, we have two cuisines. We have home cooking, which is extremely rich and wonderful because it's influenced by all the invasions. Our invaders did contribute a great deal; they didn't just invade. They contributed to the language. They contributed to music, and they contributed to the food. 

 

What developed in Sicily in the Renaissance was a cuisine for the aristocrats. The cooks were generally trained in France, then came back to Sicily and became the monzu. These professional chefs worked for two entities: the church and the aristocracy. And that was an extraordinary cuisine. 

 

What does torrone symbolize for Sicily?

Well, it's something delicious, and sweets are generally the food that you get at festivals. They're always served at Christmas and for all of the feasts. Every Sicilian town has a patron saint and a feast for the patron saint. 

It really represents Sicily in its products because of the almonds of Sicily, particularly the city of Avola. Avola produces almonds that are called pizzuta, which means pointy almonds. They are very, very fragrant and very flavorful. That, of course, is due to the climate and the soil. In Sicily, the volcanic soil produces fruits and nuts with flavors you don't get otherwise.

Almonds are part of a very important festival in Agrigento. The almonds fruit in February. So, in February, Agrigento is filled with almond trees in bloom. The almond trees in bloom have such a heady perfume that you almost feel enveloped by the scent of the almonds and the almond trees. So there's a lot of folklore around it.

 

What was your goal with your cookbook, and what do you hope readers will take away?

I think I had very specific reasons for writing a book. I am a cook. I am a passionate cook. I have always loved to cook. I started when I was 10 years old. 

My mother cooked well, but she wasn't passionate about it. She had to have a perfectly orderly house and a floor that you could eat off of. My father did a lot of cooking, and he was very good, and I was his assistant. So if he made, say, risotto, I was the one who chopped the mushrooms. And the mushrooms for the risotto had to be about the same size as the grains of rice. So, I had a very good beginning. 

I met Italian Americans and Sicilian Americans, and they always said, "I remember my grandmother's cooking. It was so delicious. It was so wonderful. But she didn't leave any recipes, and I was too young to ask for recipes."

I heard this over and over again, so I thought, "I would like to write a cookbook that gives them Nonna's recipes."

 

My aim was to give typical and original recipes—not versions of, but the original recipes, the recipes that we all came up with and that our grandmothers cooked.

 

>>Get your copy of Sicilian Feast here!<<

 

 

 

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Have you gotten your hands on good-quality almonds? Try making some Sicilian almond cookies!

One to try: pizzicotti alle mandorle. Made with freshly blanched almonds, these holiday-perfect cookies are named for the way they are pinched using the thumb, forefinger, and middle finger before they are set in the oven.

 

I recently stumbled on a plant-based pizzicotti recipe on veganhotstuff.com. Many of the recipes Switzerland-based blogger Deborah Bolton has published are vegan versions of Italian dishes. She shared with me more about her version of this classic cookie and her zero-waste way of using chickpea liquid, aquafaba, as a binding.

 

 

Tell us about this almond cookie recipe and what inspired you to make it.

This almond cookie recipe originates from Southern Italy, particularly Sicily, where almonds grow abundantly in the warm Mediterranean climate. These cookies are called pizzicotti alle mandorle in Italian, where pizzicotti means pinches and mandorle is the word for almonds.

 

Pizzicotti alle mandorle are irresistibly crunchy on the outside with a soft, chewy center that melts in your mouth. I was inspired to make this recipe because I wanted to make a plant-based version that no one would be able to distinguish from the original. This recipe can be enjoyed by omnivores, vegans, and people with egg allergies alike.

 

What is the significance of this cookie recipe?

Almonds have always been significant in Italian culture, symbolizing good luck and prosperity. Pizzicotti alle mandorle embody this tradition and often appear during festive occasions and special gatherings. In Sicily, they are a cherished part of feast day celebrations and weddings, symbolizing good fortune and the sweetness of life. These traditional almond biscuits are often made using family recipes that have been handed down through the centuries. Skilled artisans and home bakers alike take pride in their meticulous preparation.

 

 

If you love almonds, you'll adore pizzicotti alle mandorle. Photo by Deborah Bolton.

 

How is your recipe different from the traditional cookie?

As always, I like to keep traditional recipes as authentic as possible but without the use of animal products. The only difference between my recipe and the traditional cookie is the absence of egg white, which I substituted with aquafaba. Aquafaba is the cooking liquid in a jar or can of chickpeas. It has similar emulsifying, foaming, binding, gelatinizing, and thickening properties to egg whites, and the taste is absolutely undetectable. This recipe turned out perfect, and no one could tell that they were vegan.

 

Another thing I like about using aquafaba is the fact it aligns with my zero-waste philosophy. Chickpea water normally gets thrown away. Using it in our recipes instead of eggs is far better than exploiting hens and costs nothing.
 

Are there any specific types of ingredients that work best for this recipe?

Yes. While it's possible to use either blanched or non-blanched almonds, I recommend using blanched (peeled) almonds because they yield an attractive-looking white cookie. In contrast, the brown skin on unpeeled almonds would result in a slightly darker cookie with brown flecks, which would be ideal for amaretti, for example, but not so much for pizzicotti. It's best to use ground almonds, also known as almond meal, rather than almond flour to ensure you get the right texture. If you can't find ready-ground almonds, just buy whole ones. It's very easy to grind your own. This recipe calls for lemon zest, so make sure you use lemons with an edible peel.

 

Last but not least—sugar. Not all sugar is vegan because bone char is often used in the refining process, so check labels. I use white vegan caster sugar. Caster sugar is finer than granulated sugar, which is ideal for this recipe.

 

What are the most critical steps in the preparation process?

This recipe is actually super easy to make. The most critical step is probably weighing the ingredients precisely. If you're approximate, it will definitely affect the texture of the cookies. Use a good kitchen scale because even slight variations in the amount of moisture will cause the cookies to either spread in the oven and lose their characteristic shape or be harder than they should be. The only other critical step is understanding when the cookies are done. They should be soft and pale when they come out of the oven and firm up as they cool.

Crunchy on the outside and chewy inside. Photo by Deborah Bolton.

What do you hope readers will take away from this recipe?

I hope readers will not only fall in love with the taste of these almond cookies but also appreciate the simplicity and authenticity of the recipe. With their crunchy exterior and soft, chewy center, they remain true to the traditional Sicilian cookie, even with the vegan twist. What's even better is the satisfaction of making a cruelty-free version that's just as good as the original, if not better. I also hope it inspires people to be creative with their plant-based cooking and consider the environmental and ethical benefits of using ingredients like aquafaba. And since they make such great edible gifts, especially around Christmas, I hope readers feel encouraged to share them with loved ones, knowing they're spreading a little piece of sweet, homemade joy!       

 

>>Get Deborah's pizzicotti delle mandorle recipe here!<<

 

 

 

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There is much dispute over the origins of almonds. Some say the fruit tree first grew in Central Asia between Iraq, Iran, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, and Kurdistan or in eastern Asia between Uzbekistan and Mongolia. Others cite botanical and archaeological evidence to point to West Asia, particularly the Levant region. Wherever the almond originated, it clearly spread to the shores of the Mediterranean into northern Africa and southern Europe, including Italy. 

One almond in particular, the Avola almond of Sicily, is highly regarded for its applications in pastry-making and was traditionally sugared for use in wedding confetti. Darker, thinner, and stronger tasting than a California almond, it comes in four varieties: Pizzuta, Fascionello, and Romana or Corrente d'Avola.

 

Sally Giannetti, owner of Florence-based Giannetti Artisans, carries Pizzuta almonds, named for their pointed and sharp profile. She took time out to share more about this unique variety.

 

 

Tell us about Giannetti Artisans and how you got started.

I'm originally from Chicago, where I was born and raised. My parents are both Italian, and they were born in Italy. They emigrated to Chicago about 50 years ago.

My mom always brought me back to Italy when I was a kid because my grandparents were here. So, aside from my family in the United States, I was exposed to the country, the traditions, and the culinary "habits." I grew up speaking Italian in my house. It was my first language. 

I hated coming to Italy when I was younger, but then I started college and majored in international business and Italian. My university offered study abroad programs in Florence. It was required that I do at least one study abroad program in a four-year term. 

So, I came to Florence, fell in love, and said I'd move to Florence after I graduated college, and that's what happened.

After several years of working various sales jobs and making a lot of money for others, I wanted to start my own business and make some money for myself! After giving a business plan a lot of thought, I like the idea of somehow connecting the two countries together: my family origins and my place of birth. I thought food was a great way to do that, and I said, "You know what? In the United States, there isn't real gourmet Italian food. A lot of the products that are on the shelves out there are made in the United States with an Italian flag label on them, and they really aren't Italian." So, I said, "I want to start importing true Italian food."

I created my own label and logo. I started from zero. I was not in this business or this industry. I started online, and I created my website. Then, I was selling on Amazon, which I still do, and it grew slowly. 

I started sourcing from different regions in Italy, and I was very picky about choosing the small artisans. I don't buy any products on the grocery shelves here. I look for small- to medium-sized companies that make small-batch products, and that's what is in my product line. It's all Italian. Nothing is made elsewhere. The ingredients are all 100% Italian.

 

What are Avola almonds?

Avola is where they make wine, so it's a very arid territory. It's near Syracuse, and it's a small town located inland but close to the coastline. There is a huge concentration of almond trees. The particular characteristic of the almonds grown in this area is the fact that they blossom in January. This is because this particular area is a microclimate protected by the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea that keeps the temperature mild-mannered. The soil is extremely dry making the almond production environmentally sustainable since almonds do not need a large quantity of water. A special variety called the "Pizzuta" contains a higher quantity of healthy fat, making it an important protagonist of many nutritional values. It is also famous because years ago, it was used to make the confetti for Italian weddings due to its delicious flavor and physical traits since it has a long and thin oval shape to it. 

The Avola almond (unlike the California almond, which contains a lesser quantity of oils and tends to taste rather bland) contains a high concentration of oils. 

 

How else do Avola almonds differ from California almonds?

Obviously, the quantity makes the difference, even in price, because California almonds are easier to get and have a higher production quantity. California almonds are used more for mass production, whereas Avola varieties are used more specifically for making pastries and small-batch products.

 

The taste is very strong, whereas with a Californian almond, it is a bit more bland. It certainly doesn't leave you with that nutty flavor that the Sicilian one does. Some people don't like it because they're used to a more gentle-flavored almond. 

 

 
Sicilian almond granita

How is the Avola almond used?

In Italy, they use it to make pastries. There's a drink that is made during the summer, chilled almond milk, and it's made at the bar. Or they make a granita using Sicilian almonds and adding sugar to it. Sometimes, they toast the almonds; sometimes, they don't, depending on what it is used for. The more you toast them, the stronger the flavor is. They use it to make marzipan and gelato.

 

Fruit-shaped marzipan (frutta martorana) on display in Acireale 

What do you hope people appreciate about Avola almonds?

I think the taste—they have a very distinct flavor. Like I said, not everyone likes them if they're used to a bland-tasting almond.

This is the reason why I started this business. If you purchase chestnut flour from a grocery store anywhere in the United States, it won't have the same taste as the chestnut flour that I sell, for example.

What is done in processed foods with these large mass-production companies is that they don't dry or roast the fruits on wood embers but rather in huge industrial ovens. Nuts are dried in these ovens for 8 or 10 hours rather than on wood embers for 40-plus days. The processing method makes the difference. Large multinational companies need to cut their costs and produce high quantities. It makes the product cheaper and perhaps of lesser quality, but it also takes away the authentic taste of that nut or fruit.

 

If you taste some of my chestnut flour, it has a strong smoky taste as opposed to flour purchased off the grocery store shelf that tastes just like plain flour! A lot of people's palates are not accustomed to such a different flavor because most food in the United States has a standardized production method, making everything taste just about the same. 

 

The same rule applies to almonds. If you're used to eating processed foods, your palate becomes accustomed to those limited flavors; when you taste a Sicilian almond, it's strong, nutty, and just delicious. 

 

Hopefully, people will appreciate something different from their palate's "comfort zone." Those who have been exposed to authentic Italian goods will know what they're looking for, which is exactly what my business is all about.

 

 

 

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